The 1960s-70s were years of cultural revolutions that were led by young Americans who felt dissatisfied. These youths broke barriers through fashion and challenged old traditions. This paper will compare the decade that was dominated by hippies and the decade that was dominated by punks, explaining their cultural relevance and why they are still seen on the runways of today. The fashions of the 60s-70s are still used by top designers today as inspiration and influence, despite differences. Trends that were considered controversial and very explicit in the past are now leading trends.
The 1960s are a time of hippies for many. The 60s saw a lot of rebellion fuelled by the Vietnam War. First time in history, the young were breaking free from conventional standards and creating their own self-identity. They also became the fashion trend setters. In their protests against war, hippies promoted peace and loved, wearing loose flowing clothes, long hair and other symbols of freedom. Fashion and music have always been closely linked. In the 60s, The Beatles were playing across the country songs that directly related to the hippie movement. Women began to abandon traditional values in 1960 when the Food and Drug Administration approved a contraceptive drug. The feminist movement was gaining momentum, and the youth were no longer concerned about dressing modestly. Mary Quant, a British fashion designer is credited with inventing miniskirts that became popular in the 1960s. Cultural Expressions during the 1960s claims that girls wore skirts with short dresses. The skirts in the 1950s were a lot longer. The people of this era were more open to sex. Women wore longer skirts before the 1960s. Blue jeans weren’t allowed in public school for either boys or girls. They were meant to be worn when working. Blue jeans are now a part of everyone’s wardrobe, and women can wear shorter skirts without looking provocative. Space race inspired designers to use metallics and neons. Hippies departed from the traditional American lifestyle, driven by a curiosity for other cultures. The afro became a popular hairstyle at a time when it was considered controversial. These styles, which were meant to express dissatisfaction directly, continue to be seen today on the runways.
In the 60s hippies were the dominant style. As America entered the 70s the youth adopted a new, shocking style: punk. The word “punk” was first used as an offensive insult in 1500s. By the 1600s the term had come to mean rotten or decayed wood. In the 1950s & 60s punk referred to an untrained hoodlum. However, as the punk culture evolved, its meaning changed. It now refers to someone who is challenging everything conservative & comfortable. Youths were not satisfied with showing their dissatisfaction in a flowery way. New generation adopted shocking and outrageous attitudes fueled by rage and rebelliousness. Americans were terrified at that time because they did not trust their leaders in the wake of the Watergate Scandal. The youth were enraged, fed up with capitalism and the old values of conformity. MTV was a platform for bands like The Ramones to showcase their powerful performances. The youth were inspired by the new fashions worn by their favorite rockers. While hippies celebrated peace and loved, punks embraced a fast-paced, direct style. According to “When Punks Changed Fashion and Music”, the article in Vogue states that punk meant liberation for women. PVC and S&M hardware were common, and the make-up went from disco glitter to black warpaint, while hair was cut shorter (inspired Debbie Juvenile and Sid Vicious). For men, the tight jeans, bondage straps and chokers were a way to break down gender barriers and social norms. Grunge was influenced by punk, but it was about more than just appearance.
Designers are still inspired by the rebellious youth of the 1970s. Both styles represented the same idea, despite their vast differences in style and mood. Eric Wilson, in the New York Times article titled “When Hippies Went Down the Runway”, states that “if there’s one thing punks have in common with hippies it’s their style was an explicit statement against fashion”. Punk is a major influence on many streetwear designers today. Shane Gonzales from LA’s Midnight Studios believes that there will always be a reason to rebel. “The spirit of free-spirited punk is the lifeblood of fashion.” It is what keeps fashion alive. Punk gives us a sense of identity, no matter what type of music we hear. While some might say that hippies, punks or other styles have little influence on current fashion, this isn’t true. These styles continue to dominate runways. While hippies and the punks inspired fashion may be very different in terms of clothing, both are sure to continue inspiring those who wish to make fashion statements.
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